Homestead, FL, is the southwestern edge of the Miami metropolitan area and is the second oldest city in the Miami-Dade area. Once an affluent community near Homestead Air Force Base, the area was virtually destroyed in 1992 by Hurricane Andrew. Affluence fled to newer suburbs to the north and what is left is a poor community serving minority workers for the many farms and nurseries in the area. Homestead is also the jumping off spot for tourists like me who want to explore Everglades National Park and the Florida Keys.
The entrance to Everglades National park is just a short drive from Homestead, passing through fields of row crops and a surprising number of garden nurseries.
The Everglades actually begin far to the north around the Kissimmee River and the Florida lake country. A very slow stream of water gathers and moves south to Lake Okeechobee before spreading across the center of Florida oozing towards the Bay of Florida. A mysterious uncharted mosaic of marsh, sawgrass prairie and forest fills the Florida peninsula between the two coasts, all above a slow moving sheet of water heading south. Once settlement reached southern Florida the Everglades began to be corralled by drainage canals, dams and other processes used to dry the land for agricultural use. The building of the Tamiami Trail highway across the Everglades essentially dammed the flow of water south and the lower Everglades began to dry up. Extensively reclamation efforts are now helping to restore the flow of water in an attempt to rebuild the ecosystem of the Everglades. Once inside the national park, we experience a landscape significantly unaltered by man. Initially the drive is through a continuation of the grasslands seen farther north.
North of the national park the giant river of water splits into two distinct streams as it heads down the park, the much larger Shark Valley slough to the west and the smaller Taylor Slough on the west. Slightly higher land separates the two, allowing a pine forest to grow. The road crosses the “pass” between the two, the marker showing that we are four feet above sea level.
The patchwork of vegetation continues, minor variations in the height of the land create different micro-ecosystems as we weave between marsh, forests, and prairie.
Little islands of green dot the waves of sawgrass marsh.
The approach to the Flamingo Visitor Center at the end of the road on the coast slices through forest, some victim of fire.
A number of ponds dot the area, hidden in the trees.
Islands rise above the Bay of Florida beyond the national park campground.
A turn-around marks the end of the road in the national park.
The Flamingo Visitor Center, completed in 1957, was one of the first national park buildings in the United States to be built as part of “Mission 66”. Mission 66 was a ten year plan that was developed in the 1950’s with the goal of updating national park facilities in response to the post World War II boom in automobile tourism. The architecture of the facility is a noted departure from the traditional lodge style previously favored and reflected the mid-century modern style predominate during the 50’s. It was also painted a distinct pink color in homage to the flamingos of the area. Delayed maintenance and a succession of hurricanes, in particular Hurricane Irma in 2017, seriously damaged the facility and it is currently being restored. The two buildings connected by a covered walkway sit on a point overlooking the Bay of Florida.
The small marina is used by recreational fishermen as well as a tour boat. The actual entrance to the bay is hidden in a thicket of trees. A small boat is headed out into the Bay of Florida in the center of the picture.
Turning around and retracing the 30+ miles to Homestead the beauty of Everglades National Park unfolds in all directions.
Back in Homestead I now turn south on Hwy 1 and head to the ultimate “end of the road”, Key West.
Florida Keys
The Florida Keys are a series of coral islands that stretch in a gentle arc for nearly 150 miles southwest of the Florida Peninsula. The islands form the northern border of the Florida Straits, the pass of water between the Gulf of Mexico to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east. Key West, the southernmost settled key, lies only 90 miles north of the island of Cuba. Key West was the largest city in all of Florida up until the 1920’s, primarily because all of the shipping from Gulf of Mexico passed by on its’ way to the world. Henry Flagler, founder of Standard Oil, took an interest in Florida in the late 1800’s because he was looking for a warmer climate for his ill wife. He became a builder and developer of hotels and railroads along the eastern coast of Florida, developing resorts in St. Augustine, Daytona Beach, Palm Beach, and Miami at a time when railroads and ships were the only practical transportation. His railroad had reached Homestead by 1904 and Flagler decided to capitalize on the announcement of the building of the Panama Canal in 1905 by extending his railroad to Key West, the closest US deep water port to the canal. The railroad left the mainland at Key Largo and then followed the islands south to Key West. The construction took seven years, weathered three hurricanes, and was completed in 1912. A massive hurricane in 1935 destroyed significant stretches of the railroad and it was never rebuilt. The railroad holdings were then sold to the US government. The Florida land boom of the 1920’s and subsequent increase in automobile traffic lead to the beginnings of the Overseas Highway, initially sections of highways through the keys connected by ferries over the longer stretches of open sea. The 1935 hurricane also damaged highway sections but the highway was rebuilt and expanded. The complete highway opened to traffic in 1938. Let’s drive the keys!
Heading south of Homestead the highway winds through dense brush, swamp and forest before climbing over the bridge that connects Key Largo to the mainland.
Initial fantasies about sandy beaches and waving palm trees quickly fade. The upper keys sustain a significant population and the view from the highway is essentially one long business strip.
The first wide open view comes as we pass from Upper Matecumbe Key to Lower Matecumbe Key. At the end of the bridge sits Robbie’s, a well-known local hangout and marina.
As we jump from key to key, occasionally the highway parallels remnants of the old railroad tracks, some rebuilt and repurposed as fishing bridges.
The gaps between land seem to grow larger, leaving Long Key I can barely see Duck Key on the horizon.
Next up is a tight cluster of 13 islands that are home to Marathon, business and retail center of the central keys. The highway at the base of the bridge leads through dense vegetation before opening up to the strip housing businesses.
Next up is one of the iconic moments of driving the Keys, the Seven Mile Bridge. Joey has his life jacket on so we charge forward! Remnants of the old railroad bridge parallel the modern highway which fades over open water into the haze in the distance.
A raised section allows for ship traffic to pass through before resuming the stretch to the next key.
Beyond the Seven Mile Bridge islands become more frequent in the seas surrounding the highway.
A lonely tree grows on the old railroad causeway to our right.
This picture shows the deliberate separation between a restored section of the old railroad causeway extending from a key available for fishermen and the non-restored section that is off-limits.
Closing in on Key West the highway winds through a maze of smaller islands.
Finally, 128 miles after we started, the last bridge over into Key West (which actually occupies a number of connected keys.)
Joey and I celebrate with a stop at the local McDonald’s. Here’s the view out the windshield of the Bay of Florida that we enjoy while eating lunch!
Key West
The actual island of Key West is only 4 miles long and 2 miles wide but the city extends onto neighboring islands. The area was known but not settled until 1821 when the Spanish sold the island to US businessmen John Simonton. In 1822 the United States formally laid claim to the island but Simonton retained title to the land and settled on the island, perhaps becoming the first “snowbird”, spending summers in Washington DC and winters in Key West. The town was plotted in 1829 and the main street, Duval Street, runs a little more than a mile from the seaport on the north side of the island to the southernmost point, just 90 miles from Cuba, on the south. A naval base was established on the western point of the island beyond Duval Street and the town flourished. In the thirty years prior to the Civil War, Key West became not only a major shipping port but also a major center of US salt production. The arrival of the railroad in 1912, the founding of Pan American Airlines on the island in 1926, and the coming of the highway in 1938 gave Key West solid connections to the outside world. Today tourism is the major industry, and it is centered on Duval Street, a rival to Bourbon Street in New Orleans as a famed party spot.
Given the age of the city and the small size of the island, traveling around Key West in a motorhome, even one as short as the Lunch Box at 23.5’, is virtually impossible. Fortunately, a city bus stop sits next to the RV park on the neighboring key where I am staying so a quick 20 minute bus ride takes me into the very walkable historic city center. A quick glance out the window of the bus catches jet skiers zipping across the shimmering Atlantic Ocean.
My plan is to get off the bus at the south end of Duval Street and then mosey my way north for the mile or so to Mallory Square and the seaport at the far end. I’m off!
The south end of Duval Street is dominated by a hotel and Victorian houses converted to hotels and restaurants. A brick plaza at the end of Duval leads to a pier reaching out towards Cuba. Standing at the end of the pier I take a picture looking north up Duval Street. A resort beach is to my right, an old Victorian converted to bar and guest rooms on my left.
The bar bills itself as the “Closest Bar to Cuba.” Just around the corner to the west is a tourist photo point, the official “closest point to Cuba.” Even at ten o’clock in the morning there’s a line of people waiting to get their picture taken next to it.
Heading north on Duval Street just one block is our first stop, the Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory. The entrance into the actual conservatory is a “double-door” process in order to try and prevent butterflies and birds from escaping.
Once inside the lush greenery is alive with flitting butterflies, the most obvious of which are a bright blue. Look closely in the picture below.
Catching the butterflies in a still photograph is pretty challenging. Look closely by the man’s left wrist for one. There were hundreds flitting around but at the moment that I pushed the button on the camera I only caught one!
There are other species flying about. In this picture look at center right and center left to see two beige/brown butterflies sitting on a colorful bush.
The butterflies are not scared of people, I had a buddy who joined me on my tour.
A small stream flows into a pond in the center of the conservatory, home to two flamingos.
Small birds weave the butterflies, occasionally stopping by a colorful bird bath for a break.
An interesting break from the hustle and bustle of Duval Street. Now, with minimal commentary, let’s stroll north up Duval to the port docks about a mile away. Given the restrictions on available land, the expense of construction materials, and the relative continuous prosperity that Key West has enjoyed since its beginnings, Duval Street is lined with historic buildings, many from the mid-1800’s, many once homes now repurposed as bars, restaurants, and boutiques
A block west of Duval two historic buildings sit amidst lush vegetation. The Key West lighthouse was first constructed in 1825, standing 65 feet tall. The tower was destroyed in a hurricane in 1846 and replaced with the current tower in 1848. The tower was later raised another 20 feet in 1894 to help it keep the light above the rising buildings and trees surrounding it. Key West is jammed with tourists, many not wearing masks, so I’ll just be showing pictures of exteriors as I’ve decided not to go into crowded interiors. Thus, the only view of the lighthouse is from the street as it rises above the trees. Also note the preponderance of scooters and bicycles in the pictures. Key West is very crowded and the streets narrow due to their age so tourists are strongly encouraged to leave their cars parked and use alternative transportation.
Also a block west of Duval is the Ernest Hemingway House, built in 1851 and home to Hemingway and his wife from 1931 to1939. During his time here Hemingway wrote some of his most famous works, including “To Have and Have Not” and “Islands in the Stream.” It is hidden behind a tall brick wall and the only opening is crowded with tourists waiting to go in so unfortunately I can just snap a quick picture through the line of people waiting to pay the $16 entry fee.
Back on Duval Street the opportunities for eating, drinking and shopping are numerous.
As I get closer to Mallory Square, the plaza at the port on the north side, I start to see the ubiquitous Key West chickens. The story is that chickens were brought over from Cuba by early settlers as a food source and gradually became wild. In addition roosters were trained for cock fighting and when cock fighting became illegal they were simply set loose. The birds are now known as Key West Gypsy Chickens and are both a charming quirk and an annoyance (watch where you step!)
As I get closer to the docks history unfolds all around. St. Paul’s Episcopal Church is the oldest church in Florida, established in 1832. The current building was constructed in 1912.
The Patterson-Baldwin House is one of the oldest buildings in Key West, built in 1838 and used as the local school until 1860.
One of the few historic homes in Key West not built of wood, the Martin Hellings house was built in 1892 of brick.
Let’s continue walking north on Duval towards the historic dock area.
Front Street runs perpendicular to Duval along the dock area, lined with historic brick buildings amongst the more common wood frame structures.
The 1858 Naval Depot (on the right) and the 1891 Customs House in the rear anchor the Mallory Square area.
East of these buildings is Mallory Square, a shopping and museum area that is the tourist center on the old docks.
Beyond the shops a large brick plaza fronts the Bay of Florida.
Standing on the edge of the plaza gives views out across the bay.
I’ve reached the end of Duval Street and now I am going head back south paralleling Duval Street west a couple of blocks and explore the Truman Annex. The origin of the annex starts back in 1823 with the establishment of the US Naval Base, which remained in constant operation until 1974. Several US presidents used a home on the base as a winter refuge, most notably President Truman, thus the name of the area “Truman Annex.” After the base was decommissioned much of the land and buildings were sold to a private developer who converted many of the buildings to private homes. Today the Truman Annex is a quiet exclusive residential area giving respite from the hustle and bustle of Duval Street just blocks to the east. The shaded walkways are a welcome relief from the hot sun. Many of the buildings retain their military name plaques. This row of townhouses in the picture on the left used to be Building 21. On the right is Building 7.
In the center of the area is “The Little White House”, originally built in 1890 as quarters for Navy officers and later used at times by Presidents Taft, Truman, Eisenhower, Kennedy, Carter and Clinton. Again I chose not to go inside but was able to take a picture of the back of the house (didn’t make much sense to pay $20 plus tax to just walk around the outside!) The front of the house looks out over the Gulf of Mexico similar to this view I found farther down the street.
Continuing down the street I pass a number of other historic government buildings. This is the 1912 US Weather Bureau Office, now a boutique hotel.
The 1845 Marine Hospital is now condominiums.
Across the street is base housing, now private homes.
I head back to Duval Street and continue my loop south to the top of the street where I wait for my bus by the Edward Gato House, built in 1894 by Edward Gato, owner of the first fireproof cigar factory in Key West and now a guesthouse.
On the bus ride back to the RV park I snag a picture of boats in the channel between Key West and Stock Island, home to the RV park.
Land is at a premium in the keys and there are very few RV parks. I planned far ahead and got a spot at Leo’s on Stock Island, a quirky little park on the edge of a lagoon that has access to the open Atlantic.
Joey and I take a last walk as the sun sets over Key West. Just an aside, this means that the Lunch Box has now visited all four corners of the continental United States!
Next up: Running up eastern Florida
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