Fall 2019 is dawning across the northwestern United States in the same manner as most of the summer, wet and cool. The unseasonably rainy weather continues as I leave Billings and head north across the broken Montana prairies in search of some of the more “unique” trails of Montana. Once out of the Yellowstone River Valley the way north ripples across the crumpled landscape.
Various ranges of the Rocky Mountain outposts loom to my left.
This is a harsh land, capable of supporting only a few people who brave the elements to raise cattle on vast ranches that spread for miles in all directions. Small towns dot the landscape about every 50 miles or so, remnants of a past time when the mode of transportation was a horse and the local town was usually a stop on the railroad where a train depot, grain elevator, general store, post office and school huddled in trees protecting from the incessant wind. Grass Range is the small town where our journey due north ends as we will be turning west along Highway 200. From the lip of the valley the view under threatening skies is north down across the valley with Grass Range in the distance.
Grass Range, now a small town of about 100 people, is typical of the towns founded in the 1880’s when the land was homesteaded across eastern Montana. The Grass Range post office has been in operation since 1883. Today the school and a couple of restaurants survive outside of town along the highway, residents travel to Lewistown (30 miles to the west) or Billings (100 miles to the south for their needs.
Turning west the highway skirts the northern edge of one of the low mountain ranges that extend like fingers into the prairie from the Rocky Mountains, passing through the commercial center of the area, Lewistown, home to around 6,000 people. Just west is the little town of Hobson, eastern edge of the Montana Bale Trail.
The Montana Bale Trail
A 22 mile detour off Highway 200 takes one along the Montana Bale Trail, created as a community event and fundraiser for the Hobson School (enrollment 120 in K-12) celebrating the ranching community. A one day festival in early September highlights the activities as the area comes together for food and fun. Festival events are centered in the town of Hobson (home to around 200 people) with the “Bale Trail” heading northwest across the valley featuring amazing sculptures made out of hay created by school groups, individuals and community businesses. Let’s travel the 2019 Montana Bale Trail!
“Wild Bill Hay-cock” rules over a maze made of hay bales.
The journey continues west, crossing the Missouri River at Great Falls and heading into the mountains. The Missouri flows through rolling grasslands around Great Falls and a temporary lifting of the rainclouds exposes the undulating ranchland. If the clouds weren’t so low the soaring peaks of the Rocky Mountains would be peeking above the gentle hills.
Unfortunately the hovering clouds descend and I cross Rogers Pass through the Rockies in a shroud of mist and fog that totally masks the soaring peaks beyond.
Western Montana resembles a loose braid roughly running northwest to southeast. Mountain ranges rise in waves surrounding broad valleys, their flanks heavily cloaked in enormous forests of Ponderosa Pine. Logging continues to be the primary driver of the local economy with tourism a close second. The small town of Lincoln sits at the western base of Rogers Pass and just outside of Lincoln is the second stop on our tour of Montana “trails”, the Blackfoot Pathways Sculpture in the Wild.
Blackfoot Pathways Sculpture in the Wild
This is an example of why I love wandering around America off the interstate. I have no idea that this place exists until I drive by at 55 mph and the entrance gate catches my eye. The gateway, created by artist Jaakko Pernu of Finland, is inspired by the DNA double helix.
Created in 2014, fifteen sculptures are now scattered in the dense ponderosa pine forest around the 26 acre sculpture park. The center of the park is an homage to the iconic symbol of the northwest logging industry, the TeePee Burner, created by Kevin O’Dwyer of Ireland.
As I wander through the woods different art installations are nestled in the quiet forest setting.
Gates of Change – Jorn Ronnau, Denmark
Ponderosa Whirlpool – Chris Drury, United Kingdom
Picture Frame – Jaakko Pernu, Finland
Bat Beacons – Tyler Nansen, USA
Untitled Dark Trio – Kate Hunt, USA
Hill and Valley – Steven Siegel, USA
Tree Circus – Patrick Dougherity, USA
Who knew? Continuing west we follow the Blackfoot River through a series of valleys and low mountain ranges typical of Western Montana.
Missoula is the commercial center of the area and our next stop is about 20 north of Missoula just outside the small town of Arlee in the Jocko River Valley. Another unique experience awaits.
Garden of One Thousand Buddhas
An island of calm rests through the formal entrance to the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas. The parking area is just inside the gate while the formal garden rises across a verdant pasture in the distance.
Eight Great Stupas guard the entrance path. A stupa is a Buddhist monument usually housing the sacred relics of a highly accomplished spiritual being. These eight stupas commemorate the traditional Eight Great Stupas constructed during Buddha’s lifetime.
Beyond the stupas is the actual garden. The centerpiece is the Dharma Wheel, constructed in a traditional wheel-shaped design that as one walks around in a counter-clockwise manner, represents spiritual change. The wheel contains eight spokes, representing the Eightfold Path. The rim of the wheel is topped with 1,000 small stupas, the spokes of the wheel are topped with one thousand Buddhas.
Come experience the Dharma Wheel.
A close-up of one of the spokes of the wheel illustrates the detail in the sculptures of the small Buddhas that line the top of each spoke.
A prayer mountain of flags rises on a low knoll to the north.
A quiet pond provides space for contemplation behind the wheel.
Certainly an unexpected experience. Just north of the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas the path turns northwest along the Jocko River to our final Montana “trail”, the buffalo trail at the National Bison Range.
National Bison Range
Nestled in a low range of grass clothed mountains at the juncture of the Jocko and Flathead Rivers, the National Bison Range was established in 1908 as a sanctuary for rapidly dwindling numbers of buffalo.
The range consists of 16,500 acres and is home to a buffalo herd of around 400 animals. A rugged dirt/gravel road wanders through the range giving views of not only the buffalo but also possibly of other inhabitants of the range; deer, elk, black bear, bighorn sheep, coyotes, etc. Of course, there is no guarantee that you are going to see anything, but we’ll see! Motorhomes larger than 30’ are prohibited from the drive but at 24’ we are fine so the adventure begins. It does turn out to be an adventure, for sure, as the road is incredibly rough with steep climbs and drops of around 10% grade. The climbing wasn’t too bad but the steep descent certainly caused a few moments of concern. However, the drive was worth it, not only for the scenic views but of the wildlife. Here’s a tour around Red Sheep Mountain Drive.
A highlight of the drive is seeing a small black bear tenuously clinging to the upper branches of a chokecherry tree in an effort to reach the dangling berries.
The drive reaches the crest of the mountain before plummeting to the valley floor. The views are stupendous, even under the glowering skies.
North up the Flathead valley towards Glacier National Park
South across waves of mountains receding in the distance
The primary herd of buffalo is scattered on the north-facing slopes across sunny pillows of grass rippling in a gentle breeze.
Leaving the bison range the journey west now parallels the Flathead River as it slices northwest through the mountains towards Idaho.
Next up: Peaks and Valleys
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